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Vapor Locking - a common problem with older cars
from Dr. Deuce, ASE Certified Tech
If you suddenly find yourself stranded
alongside the highway with a vapor lock problem, there are a couple of
things that may get you going again.
First, if you have any ice cold drink
(except alcohol) available, open the hood and pour some of it directly
on your mechanical fuel pump. This can often relieve the vapor lock and
get you on your way home.
Another trick I have used to prevent
vaporlock is to place several wooden clothespins along the metal
fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. The wood helps to draw
out the heat and sometimes can prevent vaporlock or at least help cool
down the fuel once the problem has already happened.
No Electricity to the spark plugs
from Dr. Deuce
Several people have come to me with
a common problem - their G.M. car (with HEI Ignition) just won't start.
After determining that they have checked
or replaced most everything possible that might cause the problem, they
question the last part to check - The Ignition Module.
These modules (located under the distributor
cap on most cars) are often the root of the problem. When they go bad,
there is usually no warning - just one dead car.
Until recently, it was a guessing game.
Buying an ignition module (at $30 to $125) was a last resort because, as
with almost any electrical part, it will be non-returnable once you have
installed it.
Recently, Advance Auto Parts and a few other parts
stores have obtained computerized ignition module testers. You can now take
your ignition module to many auto parts stores and have it checked
for free. However, we had a dead vehicle with a suspected ignition module as the culprit. When we tried testing two identical modules, they both tested good. In fact, they were no good. After replacing the so-called "good" modules, the car started right off the bat. I suggest you use this testing idea as a LAST resort only.
$1 worth of Maintenance
is better than $100 worth of cure.
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