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Add your Tipsfrom Shade Tree
Fuel mileage is becoming more and more important with the rising costs of fuel all over the world. So, even a couple of small things that you can do will make a big difference in the long run.
Most everyone knows how to improve their fuel mileage in their vehicle. But, there might be a few tips here for those of you who may have overlooked one or two things. Let's take a look...
For the Vehicle:
- Keep your tires properly inflated to the manufacturer's recommendations. Tires that are inflated to the proper pressure will perform better and increase your fuel mileage.
- Make sure your front alignment is in good order. A slightly un-aligned front suspension can drastically reduce your vehicle performance, reduce your fuel mileage and cause unnecessary wear on your tires.
- Reduce engine friction by using the thinnest viscosity oil that your vehicle manufacturer recommends. This reduces the "drag" on your vehicle's engine and increases horsepower.
- Keep your engine tuned up. Check your plug wires, your filters and other engine ventilation parts. Replace parts that are showing wear or may not be performing to their maximum ability. An engine that hesitates, vibrates or is hard to start in not properly tuned or has other mechanical problems. This will cause a dramatic reduction in your fuel mileage.
- Don't be a "drag". Worn out calipers and other brake components (as well as improper adjustments) can cause your brakes to drag. This will not only reduce your mileage, but it will wear out your brakes a lot quicker than you might think. A good brake job can ensure your safety as well as improve your mileage.
- Aerodynamics can make a difference. Body damage to your vehicle can increase drag and will reduce your cars performance and mileage. Body repairs are expensive. But, often, a vehicle owner car get used or aftermarket body parts and put them on by themselves. It doesn't need to be painted the exact color to be aerodynamically productive.
- Don't pour money in your gas tank. Many of these so-called fuel additives are not worth your time or effort. Your vehicle's engine was designed to run on a certain octane level. Increasing the octane will only cause your engine to add the additional, unburned fuel ingredients to the exhaust. Believe it or not, higher octane fuels can actually cause your vehicle to fail an emissions test.
- Newer engines require far less warm up time than older ones. If you have a newer car, you only need to wait until the temperature needle begins to move (about two or three minutes in colder weather) before your car can be driveable. Excessive warm-up times also have another bad side effect - they provide opportunity for car thieves to take your car while you are inside your home and waiting for your car to warm up. According to police reports, this is a very common method of operation (MO) for car thieves.
- Turn off that AC! If you are stuck in traffic or have to sit for an extended period of time, you should turn off the air conditioner. AC units rod your car of horsepower and, while stuck in a traffic jam, they can cause your engine to overheat and even shut down. If it is really hot outside, try turning it on only when you get a little bit too hot and then turn it back off when you cool down again. An average AC unit requires approximately 25 horsepower. With some smaller engines, that is almost 20% of your car's total power.
- Don't "blast off the line" when the light turns green. "Jackrabbit" starts are fine for drag racers but they use excess fuel and can really reduce your mileage if you do it all the time. Why do you absolutely need to be the first person to have to stop at the next light? Does it really matter that much?
- Close your windows on the highway. Newer cars with aerodynamic body designs and air conditioning run more efficiently when the windows are closed. This reduces the drag and helps your car "cut wind."
- Watch those "stale green lights". Chances are that they will become red lights before you get there. By decelerating ahead of time, you can save the fuel you might be burning while gassing it toward the next intersection.
- The other means of saving fuel are known by almost every motorist. But, just to remind you, here they are:
- use your cruise control on long trips
- keep your speeds down when possible
- reduce the weight of excess baggage, items, etc.
- plan your trips to reduce repeating the same routes
several times a day.
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Winterize Your Car
from Schwank
Winterizing your car is one of the most important things you can do before the cold and snow hits your neck of the world. Proper preparation can save you tons of trouble and, during severe winter storms, it can save lives as well. Here are a few hints on how to prepare for winter:
- Fresh Antifreeze
Make sure your antifreeze is mixed properly and test it to see if it will protect your engine down to sub-zero temps (depending on your area and the severity of Winter temps where you live).
Old, weak antifreeze can allow your engine to freeze up. And, as soon as you start the engine and it begins to warm up, the ice inside your engine can crack and expand. This is enough force to break an engine block or cylinder head.
- Window Washers
Make sure your windshield washers are working properly. Check the reservoir for cracks. Check the pump motor to see that it is working. Check the hoses and jets to make sure they aren't clogged.
- Tire Inflation and Condition
Improperly inflated tires can cause poor traction during Winter driving. Worn or "bald" tires can destroy your traction and control on icy or snow-covered roadways.
- Fill 'er Up
When additional weight is desired to improve traction on bad roads, remember that gasoline weighs about 8 pounds a gallon. A full tank of gas can add from 112 to 175 extra pounds of weight, depending on the size of your gas tank. Besides, should you become stranded on a lesser traveled back road, a full tank of gas will ensure you a chance of staying warm until help arrives.
- Replace that old battery
Are you running on year number six of a five year battery?
Heat, believe it or not, is what destroys a car battery. Summer heat will wear down your older battery to an unsafe level. But, during the Summer, it takes less power to turn an engine than it will in the Winter when the engine is colder and your oil is as thick as Maple Syrup. Damage done to a battery in the Summer will usually appear more often in the Winter. There is an old mechanic's saying that goes: "You kill a battery in the Summer but you bury it in the Winter."
- Tune it Up
A properly tuned engine will start much easier in cold weather. Only one fouled spark plug can cause you to wear down your battery while trying to get your car started in sub-zero temps. That is something no one wants to experience.
- Keep them handy
Getting stranded on an isolate road can kill you. Having a few spare items onboard may save your life. Here are a few items to keep in your car if you plan on driving any substantial distances from home in the Winter: - jumper cables
- extra antifreeze
- kitty litter
- small shovel
- blanket and a few snacks
- warm gloves, boots and hats
- chemical hand warmers
- tow strap
- flashlight
- Don't Suck up fumes
Is your car's exhaust system in good shape? If you are not sure, take it to a professional to ensure that there are no exhaust leaks under your car. An exhaust leak that gets inside your car can kill every passenger in the vehicle, especially when that vehicle is stranded in the snow and everyone is inside trying to keep warm with an idling engine as the only source of heat.
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Water Pump makes "clacking" noises
from Shadetree
When you start hearing clacking noises coming from you water pump, the first thing you will be thinking is that your water pump on your small block V-8 may have broken a shaft or is about to come apart on you. There's a good chance that it is actually just fine.
I use graphite lubricant on my belts when they get too noisy. The graphite lubes the belts for a while and quiets them up long enough for me to hear just how well (or how bad) the engine is actually running. A bar of hand soap will do the same trick. Just be sure that the engine is off before coating the belts with either one.
If I get a clacking noise, I lube the belts and it usually goes away. When I think my water pump is about shot, it turns out to be just fine. Its the belts that are making the noises, not the pump.